Well the holiday season is officially upon us. It feels a little strange here though, like it's not really the holidays. Despite what some call the secularization (materialization?) of the holidays in America, come to a truly secular (or at least non-Christian dominated) country like Mongolia and you realize just how religious the season still is in the States. There also appears to be some confusion about what Christmas (no mention of Hanukkah at all) is in relation to New Year. I'm guessing this is probably because here there are two New Year celebrations: One on January 1st and one on Lunar New Year. And because Christmas and New Year are the American winter holidays, I can see how it would get muddled. Of course Mongolia doesn't celebrate American holidays like Thanksgiving, but in a wonderful twist of convenience, November 26 is Mongolian Independence Day which means the two holidays fall at roughly the same time. Why is this a stroke of luck? Because PCVs get Host Country (not American) holidays off. In Mongolia, this means nearly all 130-something of us will flood UB for a turkey and all the trimmings feast.
After weeks of planning, securing the time off, making appointments and reservations, and investigating transportation options, it was finally time to head to UB. My site-mate Koty and I decided to bring our pets in to be spayed at this time, which meant that our only reasonable (aka: cheap) transportation option was a meeker or the bus. Because of the holiday observances, we had to have them spayed on Wednesday, which meant traveling on Tuesday. We showed up bright and early, 7:30am, to the transportation center to meet our meeker (there was no bus running to UB that day). We piled in and sat. And sat. And sat some more. After piling in 14 more bodies (there are only 11 seats) and an unimaginable amount of cargo, we left the transportation center at 10am. Yes, 10am. As in 2.5 hours later. But we weren't quite on our way yet; the meeker made a few stops for people to buy supplies and pick up more cargo. Don't ask me why. We finally left Choibalsan at 10:20am.
Still smiling. Obviously taken early in the trip.
At noon we stopped for what we thought was just a bathroom break, but we were actually dropping off three passengers. What's so puzzling about that you say? We were literally in the middle of nowhere. No stores, no houses, no gers, nothing visible for as far as I could see. But the people trudged off though the snow, carrying their bags toward what must have been a ger out there somewhere. We started on our way again; I'd be lying if I didn't say Bambuul and I were happy to have lost the extra bodies.
Snuggles on the meeker.
How we knew we were making West-ward progress: Mountains!
Bambuul made a friend at lunch.
Mongolians ride their motorcycles year round!
When we finally hit the city of Ondorkhaan (roughly the kilometer half-way point) we were so relieved!
See, Ondorkhaan is where the road is paved; before that, we were driving on trails punched through the snow. Very slow and rough traveling. We made a few more stops along the way, about every two hours or so (Bambuul was definitely happy about that!) for food and a bathroom, and to drop off another passenger.
Potty break!
Finally, at 1am, we got to the East Transportation Center in UB. Travel weary to say the least, we piled into a cab (that we knowingly but uncaringly overpaid for) and headed to our guest house. Koty and I had arranged to share a private room because of the animals; dorm beds just were not an option. We were finally settled in at about 2am and ready for some actual sleep. But the animals, having just slept for 15 hours, were ready to play! Yanna! It wasn't 'til about 3am that I finally got some shut-eye.
My alarm went off at 8am Wednesday. Time to get up and take the animals to be spayed. Their appointments were at 9:30, but having never spent any real time in UB, we weren't quite sure where we were going and how long it would take to get there. For being the capital and largest city, there really isn't any place in the city proper you can't walk to. But we cabbed it for the sake of the animals, and arrived just after 9. We got them checked in and were told to come back at 4:30. I gave my Bamers one last kiss and tearily left the vet's office. Koty and I were free to eat, shop and wander. First item on the agenda: find a latte! We did a little sight-seeing on the walk, stopping at Sukhbaatar Square.
Sukhbaatar was a military leader in the 1921 revolution for independence.
There's a giant Chinggis statue there too.
We made our way to a PCV favorite, and a place I had eaten at previously: Nayra Cafe. It was about lunch time by the time we got there, so I had a "Sloppy Dorj" with my latte. Yum! We then did some pet supply shopping, although the store (oddly) had more cat than dog supplies. We wandered, browsed, and hung out until it was time to get our babies. Bambuul was spayed first so she was pretty alert, but Koty's cat was still coming out of anesthesia and not happy about it! Poor babies.
Cone of Shame.
We got 'em home, stayed with them a bit, then headed out for dinner. A bunch of the M21s were already in town; they were getting flu shots and training to be trainers for the upcoming M22 training (ha!). We met up at American Burgers and Fries, one of the best places in UB. Delicious American food and very accommodating of PCVs, hosting events and even giving a 10% discount. After dinner and a few litres of Gem Draft (the BEST Mongolian beer, only available in UB due to the live cultures in it), we went to a M20's apartment to play Dance, Dance Revolution and hang. It was about midnight when I finally headed back to the hostel; it's exceedingly unsafe to be out in UB after midnight (bar close). After an exhausting day on minimal sleep, I was ready for bed!
On Thursday I woke when Bambuul awakened me, but was able to cat-nap until about 10:30am. Blissful! A few other M22s had gotten into town overnight, so Koty and I went our separate ways with various people for the day. I met up with my pal Ciarra and we hit the Zanabazar Art Museum. It was really cool to see some ancient and modern Mongolian art, as well as learn about more about the history and culture of my new home.
This painting is of women in the traditional dress of one of the ethnicities in my province.
We met the artist. I think he's Chinese though...Shhh!
We hit a new spot that looked good (and it was!) for lunch, then headed back to my place to watch a movie. UB is incredibly expensive, so I was more than happy to hang out in my hostel instead of a bar. As more and more PCVs trickled in throughout the day, it was time for an apparent UB Thursday night ritual: Hennesey's for trivia. The menu is a combination of American and UK so we ordered a bunch of fried (aka: delicious) appetizers to split and had a few drinks.
There were chicken wings, onion rings, fried cheese, bruschetta, nachos, and french fries galore. Then came time for trivia. My team of M22s (Bryce, Daniel, Stephanie, Anh, Marikaa, Ashley and Ciarra) beat TWO teams of M21s!
We were more than a little proud of that! A couple more drinks and midnight rolled around so it was time to head back. I shared a cab with friends, and we all texted each other to make sure we got in safely.
Friday morning I again awoke with Bambuul, but drifted in and out of sleep 'til about 10. My friend Ashely came over to obtain some entertainment then we headed for lunch, again at Nayra's.
Bryce, Ciarra, Nathan, Me, Ashely, Rachel, Joe, Brendan.
By this time, almost everyone was in town and UB was swarming with PCVs. We did lots of catching up, hanging out, and shopping for Thanksgiving supplies. For dinner, Bryce, Ashley, Ciarra and I headed up to Namaste (where we met up with a bunch of other PCVs), an amazing Indian restaurant. We stuffed ourselves until our food babies were full term. Then we headed to a club called Face where we danced the night away.
Me, Jerry.
Elliot, Jessica, Me.
Luckily this club was in the same alley as my hostel so I felt safe staying out a bit later, 'til about 1:30am.
Saturday morning I again lounged lazily until it was time to start making the food. PC provides the turkeys, but asks that each PCV bring a side dish to feed 8-10 people. I signed up to bring mashed potatoes because, well, I came from a long way away and didn't know what kind of resources I'd have access to. But in Mongolia, potatoes, milk and butter are ALWAYS available. Ciarra and Ashley came over to hang out while I finished cooking (their food didn't require any prep), then we headed out at about 1pm. We got *a little* lost, but then stumbled upon eight other PCVs who were also lost. After wandering for over an hour, we finally made it. I ate turkey for the first time in I can't remember how long and it was delicious. There was apple and pumpkin pie, cookies & bars, mashed potatoes, stuffing and gravy, salad and pasta sides, and of course, wine. Bryce and I split a bottle of Robert Mondavi Cab, which was the perfect compliment to the PC Thanksgiving experience. After again eating myself into a food coma, I made the rounds, catching up and chatting with many familiar and a few new faces. A PCV tradition was handed down too: The sweater of an M6, all of whom ETed, was awarded to Joe, our "beacon of light" and the bow tie of the very first PC-M CD was passed down to Nick. Excellent choices. As the evening lingered on, we made a run for more alcohol and stumbled upon a lovely discovery: a case of Foster's! Not only are cases exceedingly rare, but also rare are non-Korean import beers. We split the case, played some flippy cup, finished off the Thanksgiving festivities and headed out.
Stephanie's ready to eat!
This is Bob. I live in what was his apartment and work at what was his school. But I'm cooler.
The fabulously fun Paul, rocking his Movember 'stache. PS-The cup in my left hand is mead!
Pecaut lives in a soum in Dornod, a couple hours out of C-town.
M22 Minnesotans represent! Me, Tenzin, Chris.
Jillian, Jason, Me.
Meghan, Me, Koty.
Krissy, Marty, Me, Bryce.
Garrett, Me, and our Foster's.
Oh Andrew! Make 'em laugh!
For the night fun, we went to a club called Salsa. It's a Latin dance club, complete with lessons. I had taken the lessons last time, but had apparently forgotten all I learned and quickly sat back down. I chatted with a few more people for a bit but decided to call it an early night. All the food and socializing the last few days left me exhausted. I said goodbye to those I wouldn't see in the morning and I got home at about 10:30, grateful for sleep.
Sunday morning was a little sad; everyone was leaving and it was time for more goodbyes. With those that were still in town though, it was time for more food! Jason, Jerry, Koty, Megan, Joan, and I hit a pizza joint, and although not exactly like pizza in the States, it hit the spot! This time I had an Italian food baby to walk off. We did some souvenir shopping then headed back to the hostel to hang. We were all still really full from dinner, but Jerry, Jason, Marty and I met up with some M21s for a litre of Gem at a place around the corner. Then we headed to a microbrewery and I split a delicious four litre "keg" of their amber brew. Midnight rolled around and it was again time for bed. I had wanted to call it an earlier night (due to the impending travel) but I just can't say no to socializing, especially with people I bonded so strongly with but now see so rarely.
Monday the alarm went off at 5:30am. Yanna! Koty and I gathered our things and hailed a cab (no easy feat at 6am) and headed to the East Transportation Center. This time we had to be there at 7am. We were able to get seats on the bus this time, which meant a real seat all to oneself! We got on and sat, although only for about 1.5 hours this time. We left UB around 8:30am, again stopping every 2-ish hours for food and bathroom. Unfortunately, at 5pm Bambuul had had enough and she vomited on my coat. The bus is a much bumpier ride than the meeker (due to the bus being larger than a meeker?), plus the surgery...Poor girl. We got into Choibalsan at about 9pm. "Only" 13 hours back but still, I was never so happy to see the smokestack! We grabbed our things, got a cab, and headed to our apartments. I wanted to pass out, but instead I did laundry and cleaned up more puppy vomit and 2 bouts of diarrhea. Bambuul was definitely experiencing some travel anxiety! I finally got to sleep at about 2am, although a very restless sleep, keeping an ear on the pup.
So that was my first Thanksgiving in Mongolia. It was an amazing time seeing everyone and eating good food, but my bank account suffered for it, and I had a giant pile of work to catch up on when I got back. Still, I'm already looking forward to next Thanksgiving, although maybe just for the weekend. In about 10 days I head back to UB for training with my CP. Luckily PC covers the flight, food and lodging for that one.
Hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving back home. I thought of you often.
Lots of love,
-Krista
My CPs.
My CPs.
